Our journey from Amsterdam to Rome was uneventful. The train from Oud Zuid to Schipol was easy to make and checking in was a breeze. While we were waiting for the flight Sandy was approached by a clerk who informed her that she needed to gate check her bag, which meant we needed to go to baggage claim at Fiumicino. Now that was a bummer. While our flight landed on time, we must have waited 30 minutes just for bags to start coming out, and you would think that gate checking the bag, it would have been one of the first off. Sandy lamented that she was only a Silver Medallion member on Delta instead of Platinum like me. We surmised that if she had been Platinum Medallion they would not have made her gate check the bag.
From Fiumicino we took the Leonardo express to Termini station. There we met our friend Michele Battisti who happened to be at the Termini station waiting for a train to Ciampino Airport. We grabbed cappuchinos and a Sicilian canoli at a cafe and chatted for a few hours waiting for our trains. The cafes in the front of Termini station are wonderful to people watch. If you don't want to stand at one of the tall tables in the front (where the rush of the crowd can be too close) there are always sit down tables in the back. Just be careful, you need to order your food from the waitresses there instead of at the counter. After Michele left we had about an hour before our express train to Naples departed.
Accidentally we purchased first class tickets on the Ferrialecce train. It was a pleasant surprise, the seat placement we had was two seats across from one another and were exceptionally comfortable. Moreover, instead of having other travelers next to us we had seats on the side of the train that were solitary. While the ride from Roma to Napoli is inland, the geography of the region is beautiful to watch from the train. It was a relaxing ride before the chaos of Garibaldi square that awaited us in Napoli.
Having heard from other travelers that Napoli Centrale can be a bit overwhelming for those not familiar with the train station we decide to quickly depart from the train and get to the square before getting our bearings. Our hope was to avoid looking too much like tourists that needed help. Once in the middle of Garibaldi square we were let down by the location of UNA Hotel as found in Google Maps. While we love Google Maps, sometimes exact locations can be off (by a few blocks) and so it is always nice to have a printed map or the place of interest's own directions in tow to assist. Fortunately for us UNA hotel is on the far end of Garibaldi square and being in the middle of the square, almost as quickly as we realized that Google Maps was off, we spotted the sign on the hotel and made our way to check in. An interesting aspect we came across traversing the square is the boldness with which Italian pedestrians have when crossing the street. Napoli is most certainly not California, unless you jaywalk you can wait an excruciatingly long time to cross the street. The best thing to do is have no fear, find an opening and embrace your inner Napolitano. Whatever you do, don't close your eyes, you will want to watch the action unfold.
Once through the beautiful chaos of Garibaldi square we checked into Una Hotel Napoli, where we had a beautiful room with a small balcony. The desk attendant spoke fantastic English and helped us quickly get settled. One issue we had is that even though we paid in advance for free WI-FI (why all hotels don't just have this as an amenity is beyond us) they did not give us the code at check-in. We had to come back down and ask for the code. Our balcony view was fantastic, we overlooked (from behind) the statue of Garibaldi at the far west end of Garibaldi square. The hustle and bustle of Napoli was right beneath us and we had the exuberance of reaching our second destination on our European journey.
From Fiumicino we took the Leonardo express to Termini station. There we met our friend Michele Battisti who happened to be at the Termini station waiting for a train to Ciampino Airport. We grabbed cappuchinos and a Sicilian canoli at a cafe and chatted for a few hours waiting for our trains. The cafes in the front of Termini station are wonderful to people watch. If you don't want to stand at one of the tall tables in the front (where the rush of the crowd can be too close) there are always sit down tables in the back. Just be careful, you need to order your food from the waitresses there instead of at the counter. After Michele left we had about an hour before our express train to Naples departed.
Accidentally we purchased first class tickets on the Ferrialecce train. It was a pleasant surprise, the seat placement we had was two seats across from one another and were exceptionally comfortable. Moreover, instead of having other travelers next to us we had seats on the side of the train that were solitary. While the ride from Roma to Napoli is inland, the geography of the region is beautiful to watch from the train. It was a relaxing ride before the chaos of Garibaldi square that awaited us in Napoli.
Having heard from other travelers that Napoli Centrale can be a bit overwhelming for those not familiar with the train station we decide to quickly depart from the train and get to the square before getting our bearings. Our hope was to avoid looking too much like tourists that needed help. Once in the middle of Garibaldi square we were let down by the location of UNA Hotel as found in Google Maps. While we love Google Maps, sometimes exact locations can be off (by a few blocks) and so it is always nice to have a printed map or the place of interest's own directions in tow to assist. Fortunately for us UNA hotel is on the far end of Garibaldi square and being in the middle of the square, almost as quickly as we realized that Google Maps was off, we spotted the sign on the hotel and made our way to check in. An interesting aspect we came across traversing the square is the boldness with which Italian pedestrians have when crossing the street. Napoli is most certainly not California, unless you jaywalk you can wait an excruciatingly long time to cross the street. The best thing to do is have no fear, find an opening and embrace your inner Napolitano. Whatever you do, don't close your eyes, you will want to watch the action unfold.
Once through the beautiful chaos of Garibaldi square we checked into Una Hotel Napoli, where we had a beautiful room with a small balcony. The desk attendant spoke fantastic English and helped us quickly get settled. One issue we had is that even though we paid in advance for free WI-FI (why all hotels don't just have this as an amenity is beyond us) they did not give us the code at check-in. We had to come back down and ask for the code. Our balcony view was fantastic, we overlooked (from behind) the statue of Garibaldi at the far west end of Garibaldi square. The hustle and bustle of Napoli was right beneath us and we had the exuberance of reaching our second destination on our European journey.
Rather than rest and relax, we quickly refreshed ourselves and hit the town (this is a must when you visit places for less than 48 hours). Our first stop was dinner. We had not had a true meal since breakfast at the CitizenM. Michele had given us several outstanding pizzerias to try during our stay in Napoli and both happened to be on the same street (on opposite sides) less than a block from each other. On this night we went to L'Antica Pizzeria Da Michele (no relation to our friend Michele!). The interesting aspect of Da Michele is that there is literally two items on the menu, the margherita pizza and the marinara pizza. We came into the restaurant and immediately found a table near the large wood burning oven that has probably been responsible for literally thousands of pizzas. The waiter came over and instead of taking our order (do you really have an order when there are two things on the menu?) just stated `Due Margheritas?' That must be the default order. We ordered one of each along with a Peroni Nastro Azzurra and a real Coca-Cola (it is a shame that Americans have to travel elsewhere to get real Coke). Almost as quickly as we ordered the pizzas the drinks were served and not too long after that we had our highly anticipated pizzas. Both were tremendous. The marinara had no cheese, but little slices of garlic and olive oil drizzled over the tomato sauce, it was fantastic. The margherita was equally outstanding. It always amazes us that in America we get pizzas that are literally dripping with cheese and in Italy they make these tiny masterpieces with very little cheese, but it is so much better and you never notice the disparity in cheese.
Castel Nuovo We enjoyed our pizzas and the chance to eat in a truly classic Napoli pizzeria. It was a fantastic experience. Even better, the prices in Da Michele are fantastic. The two of us each had a pizza and a drink and the grand total was under 20 Euros! What more could you ask for. Having finished up our meal we decided to walk down to Piazza del Plepiscito. Da Michele's location to Corso Umberto made the walk quite easy. We walked by a number of interesting buildings with unique architectural features. Prior to walking in Piazza del Plebiscito we stopped at Castel Nuovo. This castle is amazing. It literally jumps up out of the sea and has some amazing views of the bay of Napoli as well as Mount Vesuvius. We walked all around Castel Nuovo as we arrived past the time for last entrance. We then made our way down to the docks. It was a good opportunity to see where we would be leaving in less than 48 hours for Capri.
Having taken in this massive castle and the views of the bay we made our way past Palazzo Ducale and onto the expanse of Piazza del Plebiscito (as seen in the picture to the left). The entire area is devoid of cars, the complete opposite of Piazza Garibaldi. At the time of night that we arrived it was relatively quiet and had a peaceful atmosphere. We walked a bit up the side of the Piazza and found a small (but touristy) gelateria. From there we walked back through the Piazza to take in some higher vistas of Vesuvius and the bay. The sun was setting and we could not have asked for a better ending to our short trip through Piazza Plebiscito.
As opposed to retracing our steps back to the hotel we decided to be adventurous and take a detour through Quarteri Spagnoli. This is the historic Spanish quarter of Napoli and has the iconic narrow alleys with myriad clothes line draped between the buildings that depending on the angle can block out the sun. We ambled through several different alleys taking in the sites and smells of the locals. It was a unique experience, not sure if anything of the sort could be found in the U.S. From here we started to make our way back to the hotel, but we actually got a bit lost. There are so many little streets in the center of Napoli that many maps do not have them listed. This can make it exceedingly difficult to track your exact location if you are not familiar with the street layout. However, getting lost is always an adventure. We came across numerous churches, statues, and small squares with people gathered that made the journey wonderful. While it was stressful eventually we popped out onto a major street and quickly made our way back to the hotel, about an hour later than expected.
We had yet to be in Napoli for even 12 hours and already felt connected to the city and the culture. Napoli can quickly overtake you with its history, its people and the atmosphere. Arriving weary and fatigued back to the hotel, we took in the undying chaos once more of Garibaldi square with a beer and enjoyed the crystal clear night. It was a fantastic ending to a long day of traveling. Not only were we excited to get to bed because of our exhaustion, but the following day we would be going to one of Sandy's bucket list items, the ancient city of Pompeii.
Our long journey through the city left us quite hungry in the morning. On top of that we had forgotten to figure out where the breakfast was served when we checked in so we mistakenly went down to the main floor assuming a small buffet would there. Much to our chagrin we learned that breakfast was served in the restaurant which was actually on the top floor. Once we arrived we were pleasantly surprised with the morning offerings. This was a large buffet by European standards, eggs, bacon, sausage, several juices, pastries, fruit salad, yogurt and more. We quickly filled our plates and sat down to a peaceful breakfast. We were so hungry and in a rush to get to Pompeii that we did not even notice that there was a gorgeous outdoor terrace with views overlooking Garibaldi square. We took a mental note to sit outside the next morning before checking out.
Having eaten a hearty breakfast we walked over to Napoli Centrale to obtain our preordered arte card. The confirmation e-mail was not too explicit on where the information desk was located inside the train station so we probably spent a good 10 minutes walking around. We finally noticed a small information booth with arte card written on the bottom of the door. For a moment it felt like those foolish tasks they force contestants to endure on the Amazing Race with some remote obscure sign that only seems obvious to the viewers at home and not the racers. We quickly got the cards and made our way to the Circumvesuviana Train, the only train that you can get from Napoli to literally a 50 meter walk to the entrance of Pompeii. Descending several levels underneath the station we waited for the next train. Perhaps the best thing about traveling to Pompeii is that you are not alone, there were so many other tourists at least there was the feeling of knowing we were on the right track and heading in the right direction. Unfortunately, the worst thing about traveling to Pompeii is that you are not alone once you board the train. It was packed! We always try to travel light when we go by train to avoid being targets for pickpockets, but when a train is packed liked this sometimes that might not even be good enough.
From Napoli Centrale to the stop for Pompeii was roughly 20 stops on the Circumvesuviana line. About half way through through the 30 minute journey you shed the city and are in the countryside with impeccable views of the bay of Napoli, which helps to pass the time. Given all the people on the train coupled with the south Italian climate, the train can be uncomfortable. But we stayed focused on what awaited us at the gates of Pompeii. We were so close and the train ride was not that bad once a few locals hopped off. One seedy character did got on directly next to us and proceed to whisper in the ears of some other tourists (females). They quickly migrated to a different area of the car and it was interesting that this guy just moved undeterred to a different group of tourists (females). We could not wait to get away from this guy, just an unsavory individual that made the journey a little less pleasant.
We had yet to be in Napoli for even 12 hours and already felt connected to the city and the culture. Napoli can quickly overtake you with its history, its people and the atmosphere. Arriving weary and fatigued back to the hotel, we took in the undying chaos once more of Garibaldi square with a beer and enjoyed the crystal clear night. It was a fantastic ending to a long day of traveling. Not only were we excited to get to bed because of our exhaustion, but the following day we would be going to one of Sandy's bucket list items, the ancient city of Pompeii.
Our long journey through the city left us quite hungry in the morning. On top of that we had forgotten to figure out where the breakfast was served when we checked in so we mistakenly went down to the main floor assuming a small buffet would there. Much to our chagrin we learned that breakfast was served in the restaurant which was actually on the top floor. Once we arrived we were pleasantly surprised with the morning offerings. This was a large buffet by European standards, eggs, bacon, sausage, several juices, pastries, fruit salad, yogurt and more. We quickly filled our plates and sat down to a peaceful breakfast. We were so hungry and in a rush to get to Pompeii that we did not even notice that there was a gorgeous outdoor terrace with views overlooking Garibaldi square. We took a mental note to sit outside the next morning before checking out.
Having eaten a hearty breakfast we walked over to Napoli Centrale to obtain our preordered arte card. The confirmation e-mail was not too explicit on where the information desk was located inside the train station so we probably spent a good 10 minutes walking around. We finally noticed a small information booth with arte card written on the bottom of the door. For a moment it felt like those foolish tasks they force contestants to endure on the Amazing Race with some remote obscure sign that only seems obvious to the viewers at home and not the racers. We quickly got the cards and made our way to the Circumvesuviana Train, the only train that you can get from Napoli to literally a 50 meter walk to the entrance of Pompeii. Descending several levels underneath the station we waited for the next train. Perhaps the best thing about traveling to Pompeii is that you are not alone, there were so many other tourists at least there was the feeling of knowing we were on the right track and heading in the right direction. Unfortunately, the worst thing about traveling to Pompeii is that you are not alone once you board the train. It was packed! We always try to travel light when we go by train to avoid being targets for pickpockets, but when a train is packed liked this sometimes that might not even be good enough.
From Napoli Centrale to the stop for Pompeii was roughly 20 stops on the Circumvesuviana line. About half way through through the 30 minute journey you shed the city and are in the countryside with impeccable views of the bay of Napoli, which helps to pass the time. Given all the people on the train coupled with the south Italian climate, the train can be uncomfortable. But we stayed focused on what awaited us at the gates of Pompeii. We were so close and the train ride was not that bad once a few locals hopped off. One seedy character did got on directly next to us and proceed to whisper in the ears of some other tourists (females). They quickly migrated to a different area of the car and it was interesting that this guy just moved undeterred to a different group of tourists (females). We could not wait to get away from this guy, just an unsavory individual that made the journey a little less pleasant.
We made it, arte card in hand we walked by numerous cafes and tourist traps where the store owners all yelled out in English. This is one unfortunate consequence of these high profile attractions, you can never get a local feel because they become overrun with the infection of making cheap money off of tourists. If you even stop for a minute they hound you with their incessant cat calls of water, tour guides and lemon granita. While I understand that everyone needs to make a living, it just detracts from the experience.
Walking up to the turnstile to enter Pompeii we were informed that our arte card was not an entrance ticket but rather we had to wait in line to get actual tickets to enter Pompeii. This was a bit upsetting as the whole point of buying the arte card was to avoid having to wait in lines, which at other venues in Italy and Europe can be quite long. Here though the line progressed relatively quickly and the waiting area was covered so at least we were not baking in the sun. We presented our arte card and off we went.
The first thing you notice about Pompeii is that it is large, everywhere you look you see ruins. Even with the breadth of the city, it is quite easy to get stuck with a tour group so one must pay attention to see where they are going and try to avoid the collision. We walked up a long, steep slope to arrive at the forum, the main expanse that was the central hub of the city. There is a great view of the once deadly Mount Vesuvius in the background that makes for the obligatory photo. From here you can go in any number of directions. We had a smallish map of the city in our DK eyewitness guide, but the city is not that well labelled so if you want a detailed account of everything it is probably best to pick up the official map at the ticket office. We did not and were stuck with our smaller map that had the `highlights' of Pompeii.
The main streets of Pompeii offer little shelter from the midday sun, but we had come prepared, we had a backpack with sunscreen, some snacks and water, the essentials for a day exploring Pompeii. Water is not really necessary as much as a bottle given the number of water spouts throughout the city with fresh water running. We must have stopped two or three times to fill up. However, these spouts can get severely overcrowded with families filling up five or six bottles at a time. I was so happy when this rude tourist, who kept leaning in to get more water, accidentally knocked his backpack off the ledge and into the basin, which was not full of water, but rather a muck of algae that had probably started to grow as soon as the archeologists uncovered Pompeii. It was well worth the frustration to deal with single minded tourists to watch that scene play out.
Walking up to the turnstile to enter Pompeii we were informed that our arte card was not an entrance ticket but rather we had to wait in line to get actual tickets to enter Pompeii. This was a bit upsetting as the whole point of buying the arte card was to avoid having to wait in lines, which at other venues in Italy and Europe can be quite long. Here though the line progressed relatively quickly and the waiting area was covered so at least we were not baking in the sun. We presented our arte card and off we went.
The first thing you notice about Pompeii is that it is large, everywhere you look you see ruins. Even with the breadth of the city, it is quite easy to get stuck with a tour group so one must pay attention to see where they are going and try to avoid the collision. We walked up a long, steep slope to arrive at the forum, the main expanse that was the central hub of the city. There is a great view of the once deadly Mount Vesuvius in the background that makes for the obligatory photo. From here you can go in any number of directions. We had a smallish map of the city in our DK eyewitness guide, but the city is not that well labelled so if you want a detailed account of everything it is probably best to pick up the official map at the ticket office. We did not and were stuck with our smaller map that had the `highlights' of Pompeii.
The main streets of Pompeii offer little shelter from the midday sun, but we had come prepared, we had a backpack with sunscreen, some snacks and water, the essentials for a day exploring Pompeii. Water is not really necessary as much as a bottle given the number of water spouts throughout the city with fresh water running. We must have stopped two or three times to fill up. However, these spouts can get severely overcrowded with families filling up five or six bottles at a time. I was so happy when this rude tourist, who kept leaning in to get more water, accidentally knocked his backpack off the ledge and into the basin, which was not full of water, but rather a muck of algae that had probably started to grow as soon as the archeologists uncovered Pompeii. It was well worth the frustration to deal with single minded tourists to watch that scene play out.
Stepping Stones Pompeii was interesting, it was much larger than the ciudad of Machu Picchu but it was also somewhat repetitive. There are so many buildings there and many of them have a similar feel to them. Now, there are some must sees, the Garden of the Fugitives is not to be missed (though they had the area closed off when we were there) because it has one of the largest displays of the plaster casts. The Colliseum and the arena, along with the house of the faun are also quite intriguing. Another interesting feature of Pompeii are the cross walks in the streets. The stone streets have these massive stones that cross all the major thoroughfares, and these were for the citizens of Pompeii to use so that they did not have to step in the muck and mud on the streets from the horse drawn carts that presumably passed by.
We walked around Pompeii and covered almost the entire city in about three hours. Without a full map and with few buildings with descriptions, we only spent serious time on a few places and instead soaked up the atmosphere. It was fascinating just to see the architecture and think back to what the city must have been like before the deadly eruption. Seeing some of the plasters casts near the forum was chilling because you can see the facial expressions, which were made during the lightening quick chaos that must have ensured when the debris rained down on the city.
We walked around Pompeii and covered almost the entire city in about three hours. Without a full map and with few buildings with descriptions, we only spent serious time on a few places and instead soaked up the atmosphere. It was fascinating just to see the architecture and think back to what the city must have been like before the deadly eruption. Seeing some of the plasters casts near the forum was chilling because you can see the facial expressions, which were made during the lightening quick chaos that must have ensured when the debris rained down on the city.
Mosaic tile work at Pompeii Unfortunately, we thought there were going to be myriad plaster casts all over the city but we did not see too many of them. This was mostly our own doing by not having a more detailed map and the fact that the Garden of the Refugees was cordoned off. We really had an expectation that the casts would be featured more prominently than they were. As we would come to find out later, much of the fascinating art was not even in Pompeii, but at the archeological museum in Napoli. Pompeii is more the experience and the view of the city that looking for specific artifacts. However, to us it lacked the sense of spirit that we felt at Machu Picchu. Overall, Machu Picchu was a more moving experience. Perhaps it was our journey to get there or our high expectations from Pompeii that ultimately were not met, but if having a choice to go to either place again we would not hesitate to go back to the lost city of the Incas.
The Coloseum
We had planned on spending the whole day at Pompeii and then returning to Napoli, however, having gone through the city faster than originally expected, we decided that since we were so close, we might as well visit Sorrento. Plus, the artecard not only provides you with access to attractions all over Campania, but free transportation as well. We hopped back on the Circumvesuviana and made our way towards the southern end of the Bay of Napoli to the city on the cliff, Sorrento.
Walking out from the train station one cannot help but immediately notice the presence of bougainvillea. It is everywhere, perfectly manicured and flowering in tones of purple and pink. At times it takes the look of the most beautiful flower. The presence of bougainvillea in Miami always makes us think back to our many trips in Italy, and Sorrento only added to this feeling.
Walking out from the train station one cannot help but immediately notice the presence of bougainvillea. It is everywhere, perfectly manicured and flowering in tones of purple and pink. At times it takes the look of the most beautiful flower. The presence of bougainvillea in Miami always makes us think back to our many trips in Italy, and Sorrento only added to this feeling.
We had not eaten a proper meal since breakfast so we walked several blocks to a touristy restaurant on the edge of Piazza Torquato Tazzo. While not a traditional restaurant, there was seating outside and the menu looked tantalizing, fried sardines and a glass of house wine for 10 Euros. We also ordered a Caponata salad which we both agreed had some of the best olives we had tasted. We later tried to look for these olives but came up empty. Hopefully on a return trip we can taste an equally appetizing Caponata salad. We slowly ate lunch and took in the atmosphere. After lunch we ordered cappuccinos and limone gelato. Both capped off an unexpectedly delicious meal.
Refreshed we decided to take in the sights and sounds of the city. Less than a block into our walk we noticed the precipitous staircase leading down to Via Luigi de Maio which cuts into the cliffs that Sorrento sits on and leads directly to the sea. What an amazing view. It is almost a shame the staircase is so steep because you have to watch where you are walking, but want to revel in the amazing view during the descent.
Refreshed we decided to take in the sights and sounds of the city. Less than a block into our walk we noticed the precipitous staircase leading down to Via Luigi de Maio which cuts into the cliffs that Sorrento sits on and leads directly to the sea. What an amazing view. It is almost a shame the staircase is so steep because you have to watch where you are walking, but want to revel in the amazing view during the descent.
Reaching the bottom we meandered toward the sea. We came across a black FIAT cinquecento. It was a fantastic Italian setting, the ocean in the back ground, the tiny car in the forefront. The setup on the sea is quite interesting. The land is quite narrow under Sorrento, with make shift beaches, bars on the docks and boats creeping in. A truly seaside villa masterpiece. Sandy decided that we should take the lift back up to the city instead of going back up the stairs. It was quite the experience to see an elevator shaft inside this massive sea cliff. Even with the machine only taking eight people up at a time we made short order of the line and found ourselves back where we started, with amazing views of the sea from the grandest of heights.
You almost feel guilty turning you back on the sea given the peacefulness of the view, but we were anxious to check out the streets and shops of Sorrento and off we went. Our first stop was Complesso Conventuale di San Francesco D'Assisi. We walked through what looked like a secrete door and onto a courtyard that had the most beautifully crooked tree. A fountain was running in the background and coupled with the bougainvillea growing up the columns it made for an architectural delight. The atmosphere was relaxing and so we took our time walking around this tiny courtyard, squeezing out every step to truly experience this hidden gem.
From the convent we walked through the touristy streets of Sorrento, coming across numerous stores with pasta, oils, spices and lots of lemons. We stopped to buy a belt for Chris and took comfort in the fact that we found one that was stamped "Made in Italy". It is humorous how this brings so much comfort when one is buying things in other countries. The belt looked just like many that appear in all the stores in the US, but was a token of our visit to Sorrento. We walked through a few more stores but stopped short of buying anything, knowing that the following day we would have to pack back up on our sea voyage to Capri. We headed back to the train station and made our way back to Napoli.
Arriving back at the hotel we were not too hungry, but definitely tired. We decided to go out for pizza (when in Napoli...). Our destination was the competitor to Da Michele, Pizzeria Trianon da Ciro. Unlike its cross street rival, Trianon has a full menu of pizzas to chose from. We were directed upstairs via a narrow one-way staircase whose walls are lined with mirrors, which made for an interesting experience. Once upstairs we were seated quickly, but then waited for sometime to place our order, not realizing that the waitresses are quite busy with other patrons and it is your responsibility to flag them down when you want to order (or else risk waiting even longer to satisfy your hunger).
We had an interesting debate over which place had better pizza. While Trianon has a larger selection, Da Michele has the quaintness of just two items. Having eaten at both on back-to-back nights we should have had an easier time declaring a winner but we relented, deciding that both were equally good and worth trying again. Having now gone two consecutive nights with each of us devouring full pizzas, we decided that we should avoid pizza for the rest of the trip and try other dishes. We wrapped up at Trianon and headed back, trying to get some rest from our long day along the Bay of Napoli and our travels for the morning, we decided that we would hit the Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli to explore more of the artifacts from Pompeii and also to see if might come across any more of the plaster casts.
Waking up on our last morning in Napoli, we did not make the same mistake twice with breakfast. Up we went to the terrace and had an exquisite breakfast. This time we even remembered to order cappuccino. Unfortunately, we forgot to bring our sunglasses as it was exceptionally bright on the terrace, making for an awkward discussion having to squint our eyes. Prior to leaving the terrace we overheard a nearby table talking to the waitress and inquiring about how to order two espressos in proper Italian. All this time I had been ordering with ``due espresso'' when come to find out the grammatically correct terminology is ``due espressi''. I took a mental note so that later on I could order correctly. We also got a chuckle when the waitress responded to the couple with ``grammatica''.
Leaving our bags at the front desk we took the metro to Piazza Cavour. The train ride there was cramped and hot, and arriving into the Piazza it was no better. As we walked toward the museum Sandy doubted we were heading in the right direction and asking me how I could just know coming up from the subway station that I had us pointing in the right direction. I did not really have a good answer, but as we approached the museum I felt justified. The entrance to the Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli was grand, with a large staircase. Surprisingly it was not crowded whatsoever. We used our artecard to get free entrance and headed in.
From the convent we walked through the touristy streets of Sorrento, coming across numerous stores with pasta, oils, spices and lots of lemons. We stopped to buy a belt for Chris and took comfort in the fact that we found one that was stamped "Made in Italy". It is humorous how this brings so much comfort when one is buying things in other countries. The belt looked just like many that appear in all the stores in the US, but was a token of our visit to Sorrento. We walked through a few more stores but stopped short of buying anything, knowing that the following day we would have to pack back up on our sea voyage to Capri. We headed back to the train station and made our way back to Napoli.
Arriving back at the hotel we were not too hungry, but definitely tired. We decided to go out for pizza (when in Napoli...). Our destination was the competitor to Da Michele, Pizzeria Trianon da Ciro. Unlike its cross street rival, Trianon has a full menu of pizzas to chose from. We were directed upstairs via a narrow one-way staircase whose walls are lined with mirrors, which made for an interesting experience. Once upstairs we were seated quickly, but then waited for sometime to place our order, not realizing that the waitresses are quite busy with other patrons and it is your responsibility to flag them down when you want to order (or else risk waiting even longer to satisfy your hunger).
We had an interesting debate over which place had better pizza. While Trianon has a larger selection, Da Michele has the quaintness of just two items. Having eaten at both on back-to-back nights we should have had an easier time declaring a winner but we relented, deciding that both were equally good and worth trying again. Having now gone two consecutive nights with each of us devouring full pizzas, we decided that we should avoid pizza for the rest of the trip and try other dishes. We wrapped up at Trianon and headed back, trying to get some rest from our long day along the Bay of Napoli and our travels for the morning, we decided that we would hit the Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli to explore more of the artifacts from Pompeii and also to see if might come across any more of the plaster casts.
Waking up on our last morning in Napoli, we did not make the same mistake twice with breakfast. Up we went to the terrace and had an exquisite breakfast. This time we even remembered to order cappuccino. Unfortunately, we forgot to bring our sunglasses as it was exceptionally bright on the terrace, making for an awkward discussion having to squint our eyes. Prior to leaving the terrace we overheard a nearby table talking to the waitress and inquiring about how to order two espressos in proper Italian. All this time I had been ordering with ``due espresso'' when come to find out the grammatically correct terminology is ``due espressi''. I took a mental note so that later on I could order correctly. We also got a chuckle when the waitress responded to the couple with ``grammatica''.
Leaving our bags at the front desk we took the metro to Piazza Cavour. The train ride there was cramped and hot, and arriving into the Piazza it was no better. As we walked toward the museum Sandy doubted we were heading in the right direction and asking me how I could just know coming up from the subway station that I had us pointing in the right direction. I did not really have a good answer, but as we approached the museum I felt justified. The entrance to the Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli was grand, with a large staircase. Surprisingly it was not crowded whatsoever. We used our artecard to get free entrance and headed in.
Farnese Hercules The two main non-Pompeii highlights were the Farnese Hercules, a towering statue of Hercules and the Farnese Bull, what some say is the largest single sculpture discovered from antiquity. Both were amazing to look at. Such detail and depth. What made the sculptures so impressive was that unlike other major museums in Europe, there were so few people just trying to get in and take a photo. It was serene and no feeling of needing to rush through to the front. You could simply stand back and admire the detail. It was unlike any other museum we have been too regarding the highlights of the museum.
However, our main objective at the museum was to check out all the artifacts from Pompeii and hopefully to spot a few more plaster casts. We made our way to the main Pompeii exhibit and were overwhelmed with the number of objects. First, how did all of this art survive the eruption of Vesuvius? We wondered at several junctures why all these remains were not just left at Pompeii. It is not like the rooms in the museum were climate controlled, at least they did not feel that way to us. We observed the Alexander Mosaic taken from the House of the Faun. It was impressive both in its detail as well as its size. The fact that many of the mosaics were so well preserved was impressive. It was somewhat humorous that for several of the exhibits there were photographs of the originals with little cards noting which other museum had the real exhibit. Could you imagine walking into the Louvre and having a photo of Mona Lisa with a note saying that it was on lease to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City. Perhaps this is common amongst museums, though this was our first time coming across something of this nature.
Having seen the main mosaics from Pompeii we entered the Secrete Cabinet or Gabinetto Segreto. This exhibit contains the sexually explicit artifacts taken from Pompeii. Even in antiquity people were horny. There were many interesting pieces, but nothing was better than the mother who made her child close his eyes and then walked him out of the room. We did not come across anything too offensive, mainly people depicted copulating and in some cases nymphs or animals were also depicted as well. There were a great many penises that were carved into handles of items or as necklace amulets and such. We found the history of these objects and the availability to see them fascinating. Since the discovery of Pompeii there has been a debate as to who can see these objects.
We circled the Gabinetto Segreto and headed to the remainder of the Museum. However, many of the other exhibits were closed, which we had heard was quite common. Taking in a few more exhibits we quickly realized we would not be seeing anymore plaster casts. While Sandy was not happy, at least it left open a return trip to Pompeii in the future. We left the museum and headed back to pick up our bags and catch the Alibus down to Molo Beverello to catch our high speed ferry to Capri. We enjoyed our limited time in Napoli but were excited for the Island of Capri. We will always remember our stay here for the Pizza, the heat and the ancient architecture as well as the journey through Piazza Garibaldi and the excellent hand lotion that was complementary at UNA Hotel. Of all the hotels that have free lotion this is the winner!
However, our main objective at the museum was to check out all the artifacts from Pompeii and hopefully to spot a few more plaster casts. We made our way to the main Pompeii exhibit and were overwhelmed with the number of objects. First, how did all of this art survive the eruption of Vesuvius? We wondered at several junctures why all these remains were not just left at Pompeii. It is not like the rooms in the museum were climate controlled, at least they did not feel that way to us. We observed the Alexander Mosaic taken from the House of the Faun. It was impressive both in its detail as well as its size. The fact that many of the mosaics were so well preserved was impressive. It was somewhat humorous that for several of the exhibits there were photographs of the originals with little cards noting which other museum had the real exhibit. Could you imagine walking into the Louvre and having a photo of Mona Lisa with a note saying that it was on lease to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City. Perhaps this is common amongst museums, though this was our first time coming across something of this nature.
Having seen the main mosaics from Pompeii we entered the Secrete Cabinet or Gabinetto Segreto. This exhibit contains the sexually explicit artifacts taken from Pompeii. Even in antiquity people were horny. There were many interesting pieces, but nothing was better than the mother who made her child close his eyes and then walked him out of the room. We did not come across anything too offensive, mainly people depicted copulating and in some cases nymphs or animals were also depicted as well. There were a great many penises that were carved into handles of items or as necklace amulets and such. We found the history of these objects and the availability to see them fascinating. Since the discovery of Pompeii there has been a debate as to who can see these objects.
We circled the Gabinetto Segreto and headed to the remainder of the Museum. However, many of the other exhibits were closed, which we had heard was quite common. Taking in a few more exhibits we quickly realized we would not be seeing anymore plaster casts. While Sandy was not happy, at least it left open a return trip to Pompeii in the future. We left the museum and headed back to pick up our bags and catch the Alibus down to Molo Beverello to catch our high speed ferry to Capri. We enjoyed our limited time in Napoli but were excited for the Island of Capri. We will always remember our stay here for the Pizza, the heat and the ancient architecture as well as the journey through Piazza Garibaldi and the excellent hand lotion that was complementary at UNA Hotel. Of all the hotels that have free lotion this is the winner!
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